ABOUT HANDMADE SOAPS
When I calculate a new recipe for a batch of soap I have several things in mind. I want a balance of oils and butters to provide a nice percentage of conditioning, with a bubbly and creamy lather secondary. I want it to be a hard bar of soap, which translates into a longer lasting bar for you. If I am making a soap with a "green" scent I like to use an unrefined green oil in the list of ingredients.
People have asked me what it means when I say my soaps are approximately 6% superfatted. Explained in basic terms, soap is composed of a fat molecule (acid) and a lye molecule (base). When these two molecules combine you now have soap molecules, no more fat nor lye. I create my recipes with a bit more fat than lye, which means when the saponification process has ended, all the lye is "matched up" with fat, and there is a little bit of fat left over to condition and soften your skin.
FIXED OILS
Almond oil, also known as sweet almond, is very lubricating and can relieve itching and inflammation. Best known for its ability to soften, soothe, and re-condition the skin, it's a wonderful, natural moisturizer for 'dishpan' hands and chapped skin. I use sweet almond oil to add conditioning to my bar of soap.
Apricot Kernel oil is a smooth and lightweight oil, high in Vitamin A and minerals. It has a superb texture that is great for all skin types. Apricot kernel oil is known for its ability to penetrate the skin without leaving an oily feel. I use apricot kernel oil to add conditioning to my bar of soap.
Avocado oil contains protein, vitamins A, D, and E, amino acids, and lecithin. It is a highly therapeutic oil. It softens, increases elasticity, leaves no greasy residue and heals and moisturizes the skin. Unrefined avocado oil includes some of the fruit matter and is a deep green. I use avocado oil to add conditioning to my bar of soap.
Babassu oil is cold pressed from the fruit kernels of the Babassu palm native to the southeastern Amazon region of Brazil. Babassu oil has been used for centuries to soothe dry skin, and is a superior emollient beneficial for both dry and oily complexions, gently moisturizing the skin. It's especially suitable for eczema, itchy, dry and inflamed skin. I use this oil to add hardness and bubbles.
Castor oil is a thick, pale-colored oil extracted from castor oil beans, the seeds of the castor oil plant. This oil acts as an emollient and skin softener. It has humectant properties, attracting and retaining moisture in the skin. I add it to all my soaps to boost the creamy lather, and have used a higher percentage when making a shampoo bar.
Cocoa butter is one of the most stable fats known. Derived from the cacao bean (where cocoa and chocolate are also obtained), cocoa butter is a byproduct of the pressed beans when chocolate is made. Cocoa butter contains natural antioxidants that actually prevent rancidity. It is very stable over long periods of time (2 to 5 years), and is an excellent moisturizer that melts at body temperature, leaving the skin feeling soft and silky smooth. Used directly on the skin, it provides a protective layer which holds in moisture. I use this hard butter to add hardness to my soaps, and secondarily for its conditioning and creamy lather.
Coconut oil is derived from the fruit of the coconut palm, the coconut. It is used extensively (including by me) in soap making for its big bubbly lather and its moisturizing properties.
Corn oil is a nonhydrogenated oil derived from the kernel of corn. Corn oil is soothing and conditioning to the skin.
Cottonseed oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the cotton plant after the cotton lint has been removed. Cottonseed oil produces thick and lasting lather, in addition to having emollient properties.
Emu oil, which is obtained from the Australian emu bird, is an amazing oil. I use it sparingly in soaps because it is an animal product and because it's expensive. However, sometimes I have a request for it, and other times I believe it is fitting for that particular bar of soap. Properties of emu oil include anti-inflammatory, joint and muscle soreness/pain relief, restoration and regeneration of skin cells (which helps in reducing scarring and wrinkles, as well as healing burns). It makes a hard bar of soap with a stable lather and it's fantastic for the skin! Often I will substitute ostrich oil in soap, which is a little less expensive due to the larger size of the bird, and will save emu oil for special cremes, like my HeavenLEE creme.
Hempseed oil is derived from the sterilized seeds of the Cannabis sativa plant and is therefore not banned by the US government. It is considered to be an ideal 3:1 ratio of omega 6 and omega 3 fatty acids, perfectly matching the needs of the human body. Hempseed oil contains GLA, as do evening primrose and borage oils. Emollient and moisturizing, hempseed oil helps with balancing dry and troubled skin, helps fight skin inflammation, and is beneficial in anti-aging products. This oil is a favorite of mine in lotions, creams and soaps.
Jojoba oil, which is actually a liquid wax, not an oil, has a chemical makeup most similar to the skin's sebum, making it extremely compatible in skin care. Known for its regenerative properties, it helps moisturize dry skin and soften facial wrinkles, and is also used for nourishing hair care. Jojoba oil has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. Occasionally I will use this oil in soap, but find it more beneficial in other skin care products where it does not undergo the saponification process.
Kokum butter is the most stable and hardest exotic butter, similar to cocoa butter in that it is a hard butter that melts when it comes in contact with your skin. It is non-comedogenic (doesn't clog your pores) and absorbs easily. Kokum butter is rich in essential fatty acids, which make nutrients more readily available for use by skin tissues. It helps regenerate worn and tired skin cells, restoring skin elasticity and softening skin.
Lanolin, also known as wool fat, is a by-product of the shearing process. It is the thick, viscous, oily secretion from the skin of the sheep that becomes trapped in the sheep's wool, No sheep are harmed in harvesting the oil. Similar to the natural oils we secrete from our own skin, lanolin is the ultimate in helping heal dry, cracked skin. It has anti-fungal and antibacterial properties, and its ability to attract moisture and allow it to be fully absorbed by the skin makes it excellent for skin care products. Although I love lanolin's healing properties, I tend not to use it in my products. It's one of those things people may to have an allergy to. I try to avoid using animal products (even if the animals are not harmed in the process of obtaining said product) because I like to make my products available to people following a vegan lifestyle.
Mango butter is obtained from the seed of the mango fruit. Known for its hydrating, healing and UV-radiation-protective properties, mango butter seals in moisture, softening and protecting dry skin.
Meadowfoam Seed oil has a composition very similar to sperm whale oil and can be substituted for jojoba oil. It has excellent emolliency without being too greasy, is absorbed quickly. Its high level of anti-oxidants makes it resistant to rancidity, imparting this property to other oils mixed with it.
Olive oil has good conditioning and moisturizing properties, produces a lather with small bubbles, and is mild enough for sensitive skin. Regardless of which soap you purchase from me, you will see that olive oil tops the list of ingredients. Earlier in my business I tried cutting back on the percentage I used and felt my skin wasn't as soft. In the past few years the rising cost of olive oil has been especially upsetting to soapers; we've worked on finding ways to cut back on the use of olive oil and still provide a high-quality soap.
Ostrich oil's use has been documented as far back as the first century A.D. Rich in healing omega 6 and omega 9 essential fatty acids, as well as vitamins and amino acids, ostrich oil has been known to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and soften cracked heels. It has been used for centuries for soothe dry, chapped skin, relieve eczema, psoriasis and contact dermatitis, help heal burns (including sunburn) and lesions.Ostrich oil is quickly absorbed into the skin and penetrates deeply, where its powerful anti-inflammatory properties have helped provide pain relief for sufferers of arthritis and rheumatism.
Palm oil is derived from the palm tree fruit. A source of vitamin E, palm oil contains a very high percentage of saturated fat and has characteristics similar to tallow in soaps. Although it has conditioning characteristics, it can cause drying in a high percentage. It creates a hard, long-lasting bar of soap that is mild and cleanses well.
Palm Kernel oil is similar to and a good substitute for coconut oil. It makes a high-lathering hard white bar of soap.
Rice Bran oil contains the highest amount of all natural vitamin E in liquid form, making it high in antioxidant properties. It's especially high in fatty acids. Nourishing and softening to the skin, it is rich in acids which promote gentle exfoliation and protect collagen and elastin. This makes it excellent for mature, delicate and sensitive skins.
Safflower oil (high oleic) is a highly moisturizing, deeply soothing oil which has greater stability provided by the greater oleic fatty acid.
Shea Butter has been used for centuries to provide natural sun protection, healing of scars, and preventing or reducing stretch marks. It's said to have healing, moisturizing and anti-aging properties. I use this butter frequently to add conditioning to my soaps and creams.
Soybean oil is a naturally high source of lecithin and vitamin E. It's easily absorbed.
Stearic acid is derived from palm and is used to help thicken, bind and stabilize lotions and creams. I use it at times to add a little extra hardness to my soap.
Sunflower oil (high oleic) is rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins A, C, D and E, which makes it especially helpful for delicate and dry skin. The high content of oleic fatty acid makes it more stable than regular sunflower oil. It is believed to have healing and protective properties when applied to bruises and skin conditions.
Walnut oil is obtained by cold expression of walnut kernels. High in unsaturated omega 3 fatty acids, walnut oil has excellentr moisturizing, anti-aging, regenerative, emollient and toning properties. This oil has a shorter shelf life and is relatively expensive, so I do not use it regularly in my soaping. However, it's great in a shampoo bar.
ADDITIVES
Aloe vera gel is obtained from the center of the leaves of the aloe vera plant. This gel has been used for thousands of years for its healing, soothing and moisturizing properties, especially on burns.
Coconut milk gives the added richness and creaminess to soaps without adding an animal product.
Goat's milk softens and moisturizes skin, and is especially conditioning due to its high fat content.
Honey is a natural humectant, which helps it retain moisture on the skin much the way glycerin does.
Oatmeal, which I have finely powdered in a blender, is excellent for gentle exfoliation. It's known to be soothing to the skin, has anti-inflammatory properties and helps heal dry, itchy skin.
Silk fibers are used to add a silkier feel to the bar of soap, not to mention your skin. I use this much less frequently these days out of respect for those following the vegan lifestyle.
HERBS
Alkanet root is used to obtain purple coloring
Annatto seed is used to yellow to orange coloring
Beet root powder is used for pink to red/purple coloring
Calendula flower petals are infused in olive oil. The resulting oil helps to soothe inflamed tissues, reduce pain and aids in quick healing of cuts and abrasions.
Chlorella powder – used for green coloring
Comfrey - Prolific plant that is valuable in the treatment of all types of skin, bone, and muscle injuries. Comfrey helps wounds to heal quickly, and has a soothing effect on any organ it comes in contact with. Use for burns, blisters, broken bones, and inflammations. Taken both internally and externally. Also used for respiratory and digestive system disorders.
Indigo – used for blue to purple coloring
Madder root – used for pink to red coloring
Marshmallow Root has an abundance of mucilage. Therefore, it's excellent as an emollient in salves, especially for chapped skin. It's also good in poultices or creams to draw out splinters, clean out wounds, and heal boils, abscesses and ulcers
Plantain - Astringent, antiseptic, and emollient. Plantain helps to relieve pain of insect bites and is a wonderful remedy for cuts, and skin infections. For a quick relief, pick a leaf, chew it and apply it to the insect bite or sting. Plantain is the source of psyllium seeds, a bulk laxative found in many over-the-counter products.
Rattanjot powder – used for a lavender to purple color
Sandalwood powder – used for purple coloring
